The “Next” wave of local designers

Some time in the middle of last year, I received an invitation to the media preview of an exciting new project–the Parco next Next initiative. To be located within the new Parco Marina Bay store, next Next is a fashion incubator for grooming aspiring designers. The objective is to help them launch their businesses by providing them with logistical assistance, mentorship and a viable retail platform.

I thought that this was an extremely exciting project. We are in desperate need of homegrown fashion talent and start-up designers need all the help they can get in this very competitive industry. At the event, I had the opportunity to check out the work of the participating designers and chat with some of them. It was an insightful experience and I could not wait for its official launch in 2010.

The project took off in March this year and here are some of the up-and-coming local fashion stars you should be taking note of.

Menswear designers

Finding menswear designers in the line-up was a pleasant surprise.

Coupé-cousu’s designers Xie Shangqian and Alex Yeo first caught my eye when I stumbled upon their very well-written blog. The boys behind this label, which specialises in classic, well-tailored work shirts, started this venture because they could not find shirts with the “quality, fit and design” that they were looking for. So, why not start a menswear line of your own? It is the perfect solution! Their obvious obsession with fine materials and impeccable tailoring is their key selling point.

For those of you who do not fancy the formality of work shirts, Sundays by Larry Lam, inspired by the carefree summers of aristocratic England, is the label to watch. With a decidedly boyish vibe, these are stylish, casual wear that you will be very comfortable in, even with our tropical heat and humidity. Coincidentally, they also have an interesting blog to record their thoughts.

Not-so-new designers

Scrolling through the list of designers, you’ll likely identify a few names you already know prior to this project. Armed with some experience, these designers continue to do great work and deserve our support.

Chalk is helmed by the ever-lovely Priscilla Tan, the ex-designer for the now defunct fashion label, Swirl. With Chalk being her first solo venture, she creates feminine, wearable pieces for the modern woman who wants to have a bit of fun. While her signature feature is the quirky print, she is also very adept at designing sophisticated and classy looks that will serve you very well in the office.

Max.Tan has already produced two full collections and been featured in local media prior to its involvement in the Parco next Next project. With a focus on androgyny and minimalism, Max Tan’s pieces are often avante garde with exaggerated silhouettes. For his first collection under the fashion incubator programme, he re-imagined the white shirt and embellished it with interesting details and cuts, juxtaposing classic with edgy. His designs may not be for the faint-hearted, but if you can pull them off, you will look very cool.

With her designs already being stocked at places like cult boutique Blackmarket, Lu Yilin of Yumumu is not new to the fashion retail scene. She is known for her structural yet feminine pieces. I am very impressed with her next Next collection, East Asian Misfits. There is nothing traditionally oriental about these pieces; however, her brilliant fabric manipulation should distract you from that fact. The resulting designs remind me of the delicate but precise folds of origami.

Newcomers with immense potential

If you look at the work of some of the designers who are fresh to the scene, you can hardly believe that they were not already selling their creations before this.

This was my exact sentiment when I preview the designs of Pang Ai Mei. The first collection of her eponymous label, Mae Pang is inspired by the Gardens of Versailles in general and the Bassin du Dragon fountain in particular. Featuring well-constructed architectural vests and skinny pants with gills-like details, these designs are dramatic and edgy, but strangely wearable when worn with pared down basics.

Shu Juang and Johanna of OwnMuse combined a vintage colour palette of peach and cream with clean, modern lines. The collection consists of full skirts, nude separates and geometric cut out details; it’s original, feminine and sexy. The look book was especially well made and I like that they were bold enough to feature a half-nude model.

Finally, here are some areas that will get a start-up designer noticed:

1. An aesthetically pleasing, user-friendly website.

2. An online store.

3. A well-conceptualised and beautiful look book.

4. A blog (it’s nice to know the people behind the clothes).

5. Learning to tread the thin line between originality and wearability.

And that’s just my two cents worth!

Parco Marina Bay is located at 9 Raffles Boulevard.